
Mark Durden-Smith investigates the appeal of Banff in the Canadian Rockies. He contemplates the spectacular scenery, gets pampered with some hot spring and spa therapy and residents recount their brushes with the local grizzly bears.
When Judith Chalmers reported from the Rockies in 1979, the main event was "the outdoor life, action and the infinite spectacle of mountains". The views remain spectacular, and Mark sets out to discover more about the National Park renowned for its skiing and hiking.
First, Mark takes a white water rafting trip down the Bow River, before warming up at the only place in town where its 40 degrees all year round. He indulges in the therapeutic properties of natural hot springs, before treating himself to a hot stone massage.
There's a look at what's on offer in the way of accommodation, from the luxurious to the more affordable, and Mark invites himself on a guided tour of one bemused holidaymaker's motorhome. Mark meets the locals to discover if there's any truth in the rumour that most Canadians have had a close encounter with a grizzly, with one resident boasting an impressive 14 sightings.
He saves the best until last, Lake Louise, where he takes to a canoe to get even closer to nature. We hear from Sharon Carmichael who visited Banff on a break from university in 1993. She tells how she fell in love with the man who taught her to ski and of the challenges they faced transforming a derelict log cabin into their ideal home.

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General: This World Heritage Site's dramatic mountains, forests and lakes are spread over 6641 sq km and attract 4m visitors a year
Airport: Calgary, 120km away
Ski season: November-May
Currency: Canadian Dollar