Selah Schneiter defied the odds to summit the iconic rockface, taking five days to complete the climb with her father and a family friend.
Martin Moran's family said they are "deeply saddened by the tragic events unfolding in the Nanda Devi region of the Indian Himalaya".
A photo posted online by climber Nirmal Purja has laid bare an issue being faced by hundreds of Everest hopefuls each year.