Jack Stein promised Ruth he’d cook her favourite lunch and he’s back in the kitchen with the ultimate seafood feast - cooking lobster two ways: plain and simple with chips and salad, and delicious Cornish lobster rolls.
Lobster with chips
4 (500g) cooked lobsters
4 tablespoons clarified butter
150ml fish stock (see below)
100g butter cold and cubed
Juice of ½ lemon
Handful of tarragon leaves, roughly chopped
For the chips
500g Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and sliced into 2cm-thick batons
Sunflower oil for deep frying
Mixed salad leaves
A few lemon wedges
For the fish stock (makes 2.5 litres)
1 tbsp vegetable oil
2 celery stalks, diced
2 leeks, diced
4 shallots, diced
Handful of button mushrooms
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs of thyme
1kg fish bones (preferably flat fish, gills removed), rinsed in cold water
1 kombu sheet
To make the chips, rinse the potatoes in water to remove the starch. Immerse them in boiling water for 6 minutes, then drain and dry them on kitchen paper. Now double-fry them in the sunflower oil: first at 140ºC for 4 minutes (leaving to cool afterwards), then at 180ºC until crisp and golden. Season with salt.
Preheat the grill so that it is hot. Cut the lobsters in half and season with salt; pour over the clarified butter and place the lobsters on a grill tray. Cook under the grill for 8–10 minutes until cooked through; the internal temperature should have reached 68ºC. You may need to do this in batches; if so, keep the cooked lobsters warm on a plate under foil.
For the sauce, heat the stock, let it boil, then whisk in the cold butter until emulsified. Finish with salt, the lemon juice and tarragon. Scoop out the cooked head meat and anything left on the grill tray and put it into the sauce.
Serve the lobsters and chips with a green salad. Drizzle the sauce over the salad and lobsters.
Fish stock method
Heat the vegetable oil in a big pan and add the vegetables, bayleaves and thyme, cook over a medium heat until soft but not coloured, this will take about 5 minutes.
Add the fish bones, kombu abd 2.5 litres water and bring to a very gentle simmer - do not boil. Leave simmering for just 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to rest for 1 hour, so all the solids fall to the bottom.
Pour the stock through a sieve, leaving behind about 500ml and the solids in the pan (which you can then discard). Refrigerate the stock until needed.
Cornish lobster rolls
2 (600g) lobsters, live
50g butter, melted
Juice of 1 lemon
Pinch of five-spice powder
4 (hot dog style) brioche rolls
1 tbsp chopped chives
1 tbsp chopped tarragon
4 tbsp miso mayonnaise
For the miso mayonnaise (makes 600ml)
2 egg yolks
1 tbsp English mustard
1 tsp Miso paste
1 tsp salt
500ml vegetable oil
1 tbsp cider vinegar
Chill the lobsters in the fridge for a few hours, in their original packaging. Bring a big pan of salted water (50g salt per litre) to the boil. Plunge the lobsters into the boiling water, covered, and cook for 8 minutes. Transfer them to a chopping board and allow to cool.
Using a heavy knife, remove the head and claws, and break the tail in half by pushing it together lengthways. This will split it along the back. Peel away the shell and remove the dark intestinal thread running down the tail. Crack the claws with the back of a heavy knife and pick out the meat using a lobster pick. Each lobster should yield about 300g meat.
In a bowl mix the butter, lemon juice, five-spice powder and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the lobster meat and stir it through so it is well coated.
Toast the buns and cut a little extra out of the middle to accommodate the filling
For the miso mayonnaise, add in the mustard, miso paste and salt and whisk again to combine. In a steady stream slowly pour the oil into the egg mix and whisk continuously until you have a thick, glossy mayo. Add the cider vinegar and then taste, adjusting the seasonings as necessary.
Mix the herbs and miso mayonnaise with the marinated lobster meat and fill the rolls with this
Serve the rolls with chips and salad and extra mayo on the side